Rehash

By: 
Keith Bryant
 I had a few requests this weekend after the bake sale from the ladies at the shop who were raising money for the school lunch fund. 
 I am going to partner with Mary, my favorite baker, and try to make cannoli this coming Saturday at the candy store to sell and donate that money to Three Rivers Crime Stoppers. 
 This is an organization that I believe in and has done good work in the community. I have run this recipe before but I thought it would be fun for others to try it at home this upcoming holiday season.
 I have always had a love for desserts from that region of the world. The use of cheeses in dessert to the delicate cream concoctions are known in Italy. 
 From Italy is the amazing Panna Cotta, which is an Italian dessert of sweetened cream thickened with gelatin and molded. The cream may be aromatized with rum, coffee, vanilla, or other flavorings. 
 The mascarpone cheese inspired Tiramisu, with delicate lady fingers and a strong shot of espresso, is also a favorite. Another great dessert from Tuscany would be Torta Della Nonna or “grandmother’s cake.” It is a traditional dessert, though everyone’s grandmother makes it slightly differently. It is a delicate pastry crust with a silky pastry cream, which is flavored with vanilla and lemon zest. The topping on the tart is pine nuts, another regional staple.
 The story of the cannoli is much like modern food cart vendors. Street sellers of old are thought to have sold their cannoli to holiday revelers crowding Sicily’s public squares. They were thought to have origins to Sicilian Carnevale celebrations. They and other pastries were typically associated with annual Christian rites. 
 Cassata, a ricotta cake in the disk shape of the sun, was an ode to Easter and spring’s renewal. A ricotta-cream cake with a candied cherry on top called Minne di Sant’ Aita resembled women’s breasts and was served on Catania’s February festival day commemorating the martyrdom of St. Agatha.
 This dessert a little time consuming. You can make the shells up to two weeks in advance and then fill them just before serving. Keep the shells in an air tight container until ready to serve.
Cannoli
Ingredients
Shells:
3 cups all-purpose flour
¼ cup white sugar
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
3 tablespoons shortening
1 egg
1 egg yolk
½ cup sweet Marsala wine
1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar
2 tablespoons water
1 egg white
1-quart oil for frying, or as needed
Filling:
1 (32 ounce) container ricotta cheese
½ cup confectioners’ sugar
1 teaspoon lemon zest, or to taste
4 ounces’ semisweet chocolate, chopped (optional)
Directions: 
 In a medium bowl, mix together the flour, sugar and cinnamon. Cut in the shortening until it is in pieces no larger than peas. Make a well in the center, and pour in the egg, egg yolk, Marsala wine, vinegar and water. Mix with a fork until the dough becomes stiff, then finish it by hand, kneading on a clean surface. Add a bit more water if needed to incorporate all of the dry ingredients. Knead for about 10 minutes, then cover and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours.
 Divide the Cannoli dough into thirds, and flatten each one just enough to get through the pasta machine. Roll the dough through successively thinner settings until you have reached the thinnest setting. Dust lightly with flour if necessary. Place the sheet of dough on a lightly floured surface. Using a form or large glass or bowl, cut out 4 to 5 inch circles. Dust the circles with a light coating of flour. This will help you later in removing the shells from the tubes. Roll dough around cannoli tubes, sealing the edge with a bit of egg white.
 Heat the oil to 375 degrees F (190 degrees C) in a deep-fryer or deep heavy skillet. Fry shells on the tubes a few at a time for 2 to 3 minutes, until golden. Use tongs to turn as needed. 
 Carefully remove using the tongs, and place on a cooling rack set over paper towels. Cool just long enough that you can handle the tubes, then carefully twist the tube to remove the shell. Using a towel may help you get a better grip. Wash or wipe off the tubes, and use them for more shells.
 To make the filling, stir together the ricotta cheese and confectioners’ sugar (add more according to taste if needed) using a spoon. Fold in lemon zest and chocolate. Use a pastry bag to pipe into shells, filling from the center to one end, then doing the same from the other side. Dust with additional confectioners’ sugar and grated chocolate for garnish when serving.
 
 
 
 

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